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He was one of the most influential fashion designers of the 20th century. Óscar Aristides Ortiz Renta Fiallo, known as Oscar de la Renta. After his death last fall, the fashion guru and former Editor-at-Very-Large of the US Vogue, André Leon Talley, honored the late designer with an exhibition in the SCAD Museum of Art. In this exhibition, he sheds light on the close relationship he had with his customers, close friends and his family. "Oscar de la Renta designed clothes for women who wanted to look and feel beautiful, at their most elegant best," said André Leon Talley. Exclusive gowns are shown at the exhibition, directly out of the wardrobes of his muses: Mercedes T. Bass, Diana Taylor, his wife Annette de la Renta or of his stepdaughter Eliza Bolen, as well as dresses worn on the red carpet by stars such as Nicole Kidman, Beyoncé or Sarah Jessica Parker. 'Oscar de la Renta: His Legendary World of Style' is both a unique insight and brilliant inspiration.
The exhibit comprises about 50 dresses, including bridal gowns and evening robes in all colors, fabrics, and shapes. The magnificence of this fashion art is presented in perfection within the sunlit rooms of the Savannah College of Art and Design; only a few pedestals and deco-elements surround the splendid exhibits.
Talley and de la Renta were close friends, it is therefore no surprise that he would be in charge of the first posthumous exhibition. The SCAD was also very close to the fashion designer for more than a decade, who often provided the students with many a fabric from his collections. "Oscar took a personal interest in our students. They have learned from him, and SCAD is humbled to commemorate his love for our students with this resplendent exhibition," explains SCAD president Paula Wallace.
In the midst of all this happiness, there is a note of sadness. The fashion designer will no longer share new creations, but will be only seen in retrospect in the fashion world. Oscar de la Renta died of cancer at the age of 82.
'Oscar de la Renta: His Legendary World of Style'. Through May 3rd, 2015 at SCAD Museum of Art, 601 Turner Blvd., Savannah, Georgia. scadmoa.org
07.04.2015 // show complete article
The Paris "Maison du Danemark" shows the current work of the designer Nikoline Liv Andersen. With titles like "The Dance of the Deaf and Dumb Eye" or "Only Angels have Wings", it becomes pretty clear: This is a mix of fashion and art. It is an experiment, very expressive and time consuming. The mannequins show an array of showcase creations in the halls on the Avenue des Champs-Èlysèes in Paris, also known as Champs-Èlysèes or commonly called Les Champs, which was one of the great prestigious boulevards of the world. The exhibit is open until April 5, 2015.
Beside the projects already mentioned, the first parts of "The Queen of No Man’s Land" were chosen for the exhibit. Part two will be shown in Henrik Vibskovs New York store in October. In 2006, the danish designer completed her education in fashion design at the Danish Design School and purposely did not choose a career in the present fashion business. Nikoline Liv Andersen bridges the gap between design, hand craft and art using sculptural 3-D fashion layouts. She shifts our current understanding of design and clothing.
This is the first time Nikoline Liv Andersen exhibits her work in Paris. It is a particularly suitable location for her work because people from all over the world are interested in fashion and art acknowledge her work there.
Beside your art inspired haute couture – do you work on a prêt-à-porter collection as well? No, I don't have a commercial line beside this. But in October when I am having an exhibition in New York at Henrik Vibskov, I will be launching some more sellable items.
You are working together with your husband, is he a fashion designer as well? Yes, he is a furniture designer and often a part of my projects. He also has a background as an instrument builder so he's really good at building stuff. Furthermore, it is good to have one to talk you through all parts of a process.
Who exaclty is wearing your extravagant arty styles? Or do you see your future more on the art side? This is definitely a mix between the two worlds.
How do you choose the creative team (stylist, photographer, music) for your photo shoots and shows? I really love working with the Danish photographer Signe Vilstrup. Together, we set up a team. When I am working on my own photo shoot, I don't use other stylists. Actually, the Danish composer Kasper Winding has made the soundtrack for the exhibition in Paris. Normally, for exhibitions and shows, I make the music on my own together with my brother Christian Odd. Music means a lot to me.
Fashion film – the next challenge? So far I have made two small fashion films but will definitely do some more.
Nikoline Liv Andersen . Until 5 April, 2015 at the Maison du Danemark, 142 Avenue des Champs-Élysées, Paris.
www.maisondudanemark.dk bzw. www.nikolinelivandersen.dk
19.03.2015 // show complete article
With this solo exhibition of the house LANVIN – named after its founder and skilled hatter Jeanne Lavin (1867-1946) – the Palais Galliera honours the Parisian Fashion House, which up to this day is the oldest company still conducting business in its field. The exhibition shows more than a hundred unique pieces from the collection of Palais Galliera and the Lanvin Heritage.
The press release for the exhibition explains: "Mademoiselle Jeanne began her career as a milliner in 1885. In 1889, she opened a shop “Lanvin (Melle Jeanne) Modes” at 16 Rue Boissy d’Anglas, then in 1893 acquired her premises at 22 Rue du Faubourg-Saint-Honoré. In 1897, she gave birth to her only daughter, Marguerite, who became her primary source of inspiration. In 1908, Jeanne Lanvin hit upon the new idea of children’s clothes. The following year, she opened the Young Ladies’ and Women’s department.
That same year, she joined the Syndicat de la Couture, the designers’ union, and entered the closed world of French Fashion Houses. There followed a brides’ department, departments for lingerie and furs and, in the early 1920s, interior decoration and sport. In 1926, the entrepreneurial designer launched into men’s fashion. She also opened shops in Deauville, Biarritz, Barcelona, Buenos-Aires, Cannes, and Le Touquet… Inspired by the intense blue in frescoes by Fra Angelico, that same quattrocento blue became her favourite colour… In 1927, she celebrated her daughter Marguerite’s thirtieth birthday with the creation of the legendary perfume Arpège. The famous logo designed by Paul Iribe, depicting the couturière with Marguerite, is displayed on the round bottle created by Armand Rateau. The same logo is still featured on Lanvin creations to this day
Jeanne Lanvin used travel diaries, swatches of ethnic fabrics and a vast library of art books to feed her curiosity and inspire her to create fabrics, patterns and exclusive colours. Jeanne Lanvin represents artistry in materials, embroidery, topstitches, twists, spirals, cut-outs – all the virtuosity of the couturière’s craft. It is classical French perfection, with very 18th century style dresses – slender bust, low waist, ample skirt – contrasting with the tubular line of Art Deco with its black and white geometrical patterns, the profusion of ribbons, cristals, beads, and silk tassels. A capacity for hard work and an intuitive understanding of the modern world only partly explain the extraordinary success of this discreet woman."
Jeanne Lanvin . March 8th to August 23rd, 2015 . General curator : Olivier Saillard, director of the Palais Galliera . Academic advisors : Sophie Grossiord, general curator at the Palais Galliera, assisted by Christian Gros . Artistic direction : Alber Elbaz, artistic director of Maison Lanvin, with Laure Harivel, Katy Reiss & Romain Stiegler . Scénography : Laurence Le Bris . Palais Galliera . 10, rue Pierre 1er de Serbie, 75116 Paris . Opening times : Tuesday to Sunday 10 am to 6 pm, Late openings on Thursdays until 9 pm, Closed on Mondays and public holidays, Ticket offices close 45 minutes before closing time. palaisgalliera.paris.fr
12.03.2015 // show complete article