News // 18 News by Rankin Photography Ltd
Now appearing at Rizzoli is RANKIN's latest book: Unfashionable. It is rich with fashion and beauty images and almost a kind of autobiographical look into the visual mind of the exceptional London-based photographer, who has also made a name for himself as a director and publisher. The book contains contributions by make-up artist Andrew Gallimore, stylist and Love Editor Katie Grand, by Co-Founder of Dazed & Confused and AnOther, Jefferson Hack, as well as supermodel and living legend Kate Moss.
A photographer who has defined the aesthetics and attitudes of the 1990s and 2000s, Rankin’s influence continues to be seen everywhere, from fashion editorials to cinematography, graphic design, and music videos for artists from Rita Ora to Miley Cyrus. Edited by the photographer himself, and drawing from thirty years of work, this is the first retrospective of Rankin’s full career in fashion photography. From early provocative portraiture in the late 1980s through his founding with Jefferson Hack of the fashion bibles of the 1990s and 2000s, Dazed & Confused and AnOther Magazine, to his iconic monographs and bi-annual fashion and culture magazine Hunger and its pioneering digital platform, Hunger TV. Rankin’s work has defined the face of popular culture for generations.
Presented in reverse chronology, with a nod to a continuing spirit of contradiction, Unfashionable moves from Rankin’s most iconic portraiture and documentary work through his ground breaking fashion shoots and back to his earliest Polaroids. With contributions from Rankin and several of his influences, peers, subjects, and admirers, this is the definitive look at one of the most profound influences on fashion and photography work today.
Curated by Rankin. Here an exclusive GoSee Interview for this new and wonderful book:
We know you are a photoholic. What is left to do/to shoot after 30 years?
There’s everything left to shoot, that’s the amazing thing. The world is constantly changing; there are new creatives, new models, new designers, new make-up artists all doing amazing things. Also I’ve got a hit-list of heroes I’ve not photographed yet – if anyone knows Barack Obama or Sean Penn, send them my way! Culture is so diverse, and from a portraiture perspective, there are still so many stories to tell.
How many pictures did not make it into the book?
At one point the book edit was over 3000 pages long, so a lot! It was a tough task to edit it down and, whilst I love what we’ve done, I know there is a lot more imagery to be mined for future projects.
And how many did you shoot in 30 years in total? Any idea?
How many shoots? That’s a difficult question. I’m addicted to photography, I’m shooting every day. Whether its a commercial project, a magazine editorial or just me photographing my dogs, I’m never far away from my camera.
The book focuses on fashion and beauty. Is that how you see yourself?
Honestly no. I’ve been described as nearly everything from celebrity photographer to fashion photographer, but I’ve always thought of myself as a portrait photographer. Every shoot I do is a collaboration between me and the subject; I work with them and bring out aspects of their character to tell stories. An image might be on the surface to sell clothes or a make-up brand, but ultimately, I like to think they reveal something about the person I’m shooting and humanity in general.
You mentioned your portraits – can you tell us a bit more?
People fascinate me, I’m really inquisitive about them. I love meeting new people and getting inside their heads. For me, that’s the key to great portraiture, talking to people and understanding them. Whether they are models, celebrities or regular people, I always talk incessantly to them on set. You need to get to know them before you can capture something about their personalities. Portraiture for me is all about making a connection with my subject, building up a rapport, which in the end the viewer also feels.
You shoot so many social campaigns – any special cause that has your fullest support?
I’ve always worked with charities; it’s an important part of my life and my career. I don’t think I can say which cause I support the most as every campaign I do means something different to me. That’s why I’ve worked with charities from Battersea Cats & Dogs Home to The British Heart Foundation, Woman’s Aid, Comic Relief, World Cancer Research Fund, and Mencap – I’ve always felt if you’re in a position to shine a light on a topic, it’s your social obligation to do it.
30 years is a long time. If you look back – any regrets?
I think everyone has something they’d go back and change if they could. But there’s no point living in the past. Recently, I’ve been thinking more about FOMO and how its stunting people’s enjoyment of the present – always thinking that something better is happening elsewhere. So I’ve decided to let it go and enjoy what I’m doing now.
London is a huge fashion-photography-trend-melting-hotspot-pot. Is Brexit a theme you talk about at all?
I’ve not shied away from the fact that I think Brexit is bad news, particularly in the creative world. Since we joined the EU, the conversation between London and European cities like Berlin, Milan and Copenhagen has produced some of the best work across the industry. I made work to support the Stronger In campaign during the referendum, and I’m currently asking people to write to their MPs to have the #FinalSay on Brexit.
What is to do, where to go right now in London? Any museum, exhibition, restaurant, bar you can recommend as a hot spot?
Everyone should go to see the V&A’s new photography wing, they’ve doubled the room they have to show photography, and it’s great to see more from their archive out on public display again. For something more contemporary, my studio is around the corner from the Zabludowicz Collection, and their current Rachel Maclean show is interesting – she’s a mix of Paul MacCarthy meets Cindy Sherman, producing surreal political video art. It’s definitely not for everyone, but it’s worth taking a look. For a restaurant, you’ll find me at J Sheekey – I’d wager that they have the best seafood in London.
R A N K I N – UNFASHIONABLE . 30 YEARS OF FASHION PHOTOGRAPHY . October 2018 . Format: Hardcover . Publisher: Rizzoli . Trim Size: 10 x 12 inches, Pages: 324 . US Price: $65.00, UK Price: £50.00 . ISBN: 978-0-8478-6217-7
02.11.2018 // show complete article
#LifeIsACatwalk....The fashion industry will be brought face-to-face with its narrow standards of beauty this London Fashion Week, through a unique collaboration between renowned photographer Rankin, designer Steven Tai and the charity Changing Faces. 'The Portrait Positive' project, conceived by Stephen Bell, challenges perceptions of beauty through a series of images of 16 different women with visible facial and bodily differences.
Shot by Rankin and dressed in designs by Steven Tai, three of the women from the portrait series took to the catwalk in Steven Tai’s presentation at London Fashion Week on 16 September. This will be followed by a panel discussion at London Fashion Weekend about the fashion industry’s limited conceptions of beauty.
'The Portrait Positive' images have been collated into a book of the same name – proceeds from the sales of which will go to support Changing Faces’ work across the country. The Portrait Positive book will launch on Tuesday 25 September and will be available to purchase on the Portrait Positive website as well as select stores, boutiques and art spaces across the UK. Changing Faces is the leading charity for 1.3 million children, young people and adults in the UK who have a medical condition, mark or scar that makes them look different. Approximately one in 111 people in the UK have a significant visible facial difference, despite being largely absent from representations in fashion and the media.
“Living with a visible difference you are literally judged by your appearance and compared to what I think is a fake idea of what it is to be beautiful or even ‘normal’. The only way to shift this perception is to talk about it and face it head on. Our amazing subjects are dealing with these issues with grace, dignity and strength. It was an absolute honor to work with them and try to create a discussion around what it is to be beautiful. To me they are all unique.” Rankin
"As a charity that supports people with visible differences, we are delighted to be part of a movement that challenges the way the fashion industry represents difference. We want to break down barriers and change the narrow view of beauty that exists in society, especially in the fashion industry. These amazing images by Rankin will help to address the stigma around ‘looking different’ and show that true beauty is about being proud to be yourself. We want to see brands, publications and designers work with real people of all appearances so that fashion is accessible to all." Becky Hewitt, CEO Changing Faces
Three of the 16 women that took part in the shoot with Rankin shared their thoughts on being part of the Portrait Positive project;
‘The ethos of the Portrait Positive project is something I believe in. We need to challenge the fashion and beauty industry to be more inclusive of people who look visibly different. Confidence is when you accept who you are. The photoshoot with Rankin was fun and very exciting. Everyone looked great and there was such a positive buzz in the studio. It was my confidence rather than my scars per se that was weighing me down. I feel like this project is about giving permission to people to just be, and to look at ourselves in a positive light.’ Tulsi, Speaker and Pilates Specialist, Burns Survivor, London
‘Over the years I have learned that being unique is something that should be embraced, not challenged, and being a part of Portrait Positive to bring that into a format that is accessible to everyone was an incredible experience. Society constructs concepts and rules about what makes a person ‘beautiful’, but that’s all it is – a construction, not a reality.’ Brenda, Children’s Entertainer and Business Owner, who has Alopecia, London.
‘To be a part of a project involving visibly different models alongside fashion, photography and the arts is so refreshing. Hopefully it will open the eyes of people in many industries that diversity is important, especially for young people, to see it in the media. My personal goal is to try and inspire others to embrace their appearance, no matter what you look like. Fall in love with yourself using clothes and beauty to express yourself rather than hide away’ Catrin, Student, Motivational Speaker and Burns Survivor from North Wales.
About – Changing Faces is the UK's leading charity for everyone who has a mark, scar or condition that makes them look different. For over 25 years they have been providing advice and support, challenging discrimination, and campaigning for a world that respects difference. At least 1.3 million children, young people and adults in the UK are estimated to have significant disfigurements, including 86,000 children of school age who have a visible difference. Go & Buy the book : changingfaces.org.uk or donate now: changingfaces.org.uk/donate
About – Portrait Positive. Steven Tai and Stephen Bell are behind both the concept and creative direction of Portrait Positive. This is in collaboration with the world-renowned photographer, Rankin and sixteen women. The project aims to change the perception of how beauty is seen in fashion and beyond. This project presents a series of stunning and striking portraits, which showcase people with visible differences. Follow the journey and story of sixteen individuals, photographed by Rankin, dressed in designs by Steven Tai and brought together by Stephen Bell. Steven Tai’s fashion brand is known for it’s take on the quirky girl. Stephen Bell was born with a rare condition called Syndactyly (fusion of fingers) on his right hand.
18.09.2018 // show complete article
Lingerie meets culture institution – this extremely unusual cooperation is brought to you by celebrated lingerie label COCO DE MER and one of the most renowned museums in our world, the V&A London. The Coco de Mer collection entitled ‘The Beauty of Nature’ for F/W '18 is being launched worldwide in September 2018, inspired by the treasures of the institution, which is home to more than 2.3 million objects from 5000 years of human cultural history. The campaign was photographed by RANKIN, and the executive agency was THE FULL SERVICE.
We learn from The Full Service : "Coco de Mer has collaborated with the world’s leading museum of art, design and performance, translating intricate detailing and iridescent surfaces into glamorous silhouettes. Merging nature with richly dramatic embellishment, this collection celebrates the opulence of ornament from Georgian glass to traditional Korean lacquerware in silk satins and tulles, allowing you to immerse yourself in the delicate motifs and ornate patterns from the V&A’s rich archives.
Coco de Mer has delved into the V&A collections and adapted items such as an English glass and gilt scent bottle from about the 1760s into a delicate golden embroidery and taken William Morris’ wreathnet furnishing fabric from 1882 to create a beautiful silk nightwear print."
The collection is dedicated to four topics, and Coco de Mer let's us know : "Golden Heron – an 18th century glass and gilt scent bottle from V&A’s collections is the inspiration for this intricate design. Echoing the color scheme of the original, the rich gold luster of the embroidery finds a perfect base in the deep blue of the silk satin.
Botanical Beauty – this beautiful design features an embroidery detail from a silk cushion cover from the V&A’s textile collections. The stylized heart-shape of wild flowers is an exquisite example of the English taste for floral decoration popular in the 17th century which has been elegantly adapted for the contemporary woman.
Midnight Vine – this delicate leaf motif was inspired by a lustrous mother of pearl inlay found in the V&A’s collection of traditional Korean lacquerware. A popular motif in Korean art, scrolling vines were considered symbols of abundance.
Signature – This rich, ruby-colored collection is a luxurious interpretation of the floriated pattern of wreathnet, a textile originally designed by William Morris in 1882. A pioneer of the Arts and Crafts movement, his designs sought to bring the art of nature into everyday life. Enjoy the sumptuous splendor of the Signature Collection."
Lauren Sizeland, Head of Business Development and Licensing V&A on the seductive cooperation: "The V&A and Coco de Mer share a passion for high quality & exquisite design so we were delighted when they approached us about a line of luxury lingerie. From the final details and finishes of each item to the product names, we have collaborated with Coco de Mer to make sure that the collection blends the V&A brand signature with Coco de Mer aesthetics."
And Lucy Litwack, CEO of Coco de Mer, continues : “It is an honor to collaborate with the V&A. I have always loved the museum, and as two British heritage brands with a passion for beauty, we were very well matched. We met up and felt that we could develop a lingerie collection that would embody key elements of both our brands – luxury, opulence and glamour. I’m thrilled with how this first collection has materialized – it is really beautiful – and I am looking forward to our next collaboration in S/S '19.”
About - Coco de Mer. Luxurious, enticing and empowering, Coco de Mer is where you explore the exhilarating limits of your erotic imagination. Online and in its exclusive London boutique, the team at Coco de Mer collect and curate only the finest lingerie and erotica to inspire exploration, excitement and enjoyment. Coco de Mer is where the delicious combination of sensuality, fashion and erotica come together to form a decadently heady mix. Surrender to your desires, and allow Coco de Mer to lead you into temptation. coco-de-mer.com
About - V&A. The V&A is the world’s leading museum of art, design and performance with collections unrivaled in their scope and diversity. It was established to make works of art available to all and to inspire British designers and manufacturers. Today, the V&A’s collections, which span over 5,000 years of creativity in virtually every medium and from many parts of the world, continue to intrigue, inspire and inform. vam.ac.uk
07.09.2018 // show complete article